We all know the wonders of piquant jalapeños and fire-hot habaneros. But Mexico has a surprising variety of hot peppers whose regional fame hasn't crossed the border—or in some cases even made it to Mexico City. Chiltepínes, small chiles harvested wild in the Sonoran desert of northern Mexico, pack more than their fair share of heat and are one of this country's little-known varietals.
I first came across chiltepínes at the dinner table of my boyfriend Rodolfo's family in Sonora, which shares a border with Arizona. I watched as his father Ramón would reach for a wood spice grinder, pop a few dried chiltepines in its crevice and mash the flaky red flesh and yellow seeds to a powder. Then he'd sprinkle the mix onto whatever dish was laid before him—eggs in the morning, tacos in the afternoon, soup in the evening. He did this at every meal to the general awe of everyone else at the table, who knew just how damn spicy those little chiles can be.
Smaller than a blueberry, a smidge bigger than a caper, chiltepínes look harmless—even sweet. Dressed like the gentle sheep of chiles, they bite like a wolf. Each tiny bulb contains nearly 30 heart-shaped seeds. When whole or crushed to a powder, their aroma will cut straight to your throat. Chiltepínes have slightly sweet, tangy flavor and a heat that burns then quickly dissipates, setting them apart from their brethren.
They're difficult, if not impossible, to find in Mexico City, except in the homes of the Sonoran diaspora, whose care packages sent from their home state inevitably will contain a small satchel of wild-grown chiltepínes.
An addendum: For those who have tried chile pequin, the state chile of Texas and a close cousin to the chiltepín, and want to know more about the difference between the two, you can find a detailed explanation in the blog Chasing Chiles.
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